UHillary Hoffpower ngumbhali onamava angaphezu kweminyaka emithandathu kushishino lomtshato.Umsebenzi wakhe uphinde wavela kwiSikhokelo soMtshakazi kunye nocingo loMtshato.
Zininzi izinto ekufuneka ziqwalaselwe xa ukhangela ilokhwe yomtshato echanekileyo, njengoko zininzi izimbo, iisilhouettes, amanqaku amaxabiso, kunye nabayili abanokukhetha kuzo.Nangona kunjalo, ukuba unokuqonda okusisiseko kwamalaphu eengubo zomtshato kunye nexesha lokunxiba, uya kuba nexesha elilula lokwenza isigqibo sakho.
Ngokutsho kwengcali yefashoni yomtshato uMark Ingram, ayizizo zonke iingubo zomtshato ezifanayo, ngakumbi kuxhomekeke kwixesha lonyaka.Abantu bathi iilokhwe zomtshato ziphelelwe lixesha, kodwa asiyonyani leyo.Iingubo ze-satin ezinzima, umzekelo, zihlala zikhetha ukungakhululeki ehlobo, njenge-cotton sundresses ekwindla.Ulwamkelo lwe-Ballroom lusenokubonakala lungekho.“Kakade, umtshakazi unalo lonke ilungelo lokwenza nokukhetha into ayithandayo,” wongezelela ngelitshoyo u-Ingram."Kodwa ngokoluvo lwam, xa kuziwa kwisinxibo sakho somtshato kunye nendlela ebaluleke ngayo kumhla wakho, ndikhetha ukusebenzisa uninzi lwemithetho yakudala yesimilo."
Ukongeza, u-Ingram wachaza ukuba isitayile kunye ne-silhouette yelokhwe ekugqibeleni yayalela indlela yelaphu.Ezinye izixhobo zingcono kwizitayile ezicwangcisiweyo, ezinye zilungele ukubukeka okubhabhayo, okunomoya, kwaye ezinye zilungele iigawuni zebhola ezinomfanekiso.“Amalaphu endiwathandayo okusebenza ngawo ngamalaphu amiswe ngakumbi njengemikado, igrosgrain kunye negazar,” utshilo u-Ingram."Ndisebenza ngefomu kunye nokwakheka, kwaye la malaphu anika ulwakhiwo endaweni yemvakalelo yothando."
Ngoko ke, ngaphambi kokuba uqale ukuthenga ingubo yomtshato, jonga into onokuyilindela kwiindidi ezahlukeneyo zeengubo zomtshato namhlanje.Okulandelayo, ngoncedo lweengcebiso zeengcali zika-Ingram, nantsi into okufuneka uyazi malunga namalaphu elokhwe yomtshato ukukunceda uxelele umahluko phakathi kwe-cambric kunye ne-brocade.
UMark Ingram yingcaphephe yefashoni yomtshakazi kunye nomlondolozi oneminyaka engaphezu kwama-40 yamava kushishino.Ukongeza kumgca wakhe ongaziwa welokhwe zomtshato, ungumseki kunye ne-CEO kaMark Ingram Atelier, isaluni yomtshakazi eyaziwayo eNew York.
Eli laphu likhulu lilula, lithambile, kwaye lenziwe ngokulukwa nje, ngokuqhelekileyo njengesigqubuthelo okanye isigqubuthelo.Igqibelele entwasahlobo efudumeleyo okanye imozulu yasehlotyeni, le nto ingumfanekiso wepati yegadi ephucukileyo.
I-Brocade ingenziwa kwi-silika okanye i-synthetic fibers kwaye ibonakaliswe ngama-jacquards (iipateni eziphakanyisiweyo) ezilukiweyo kwilaphu.Ekubeni izinto eziphathekayo zixinene kodwa zikhaphukhaphu kune-satin, zifanelekile kwisambatho esicwangcisiweyo esinokugqithwa kwikwindla esemthethweni okanye umtshato wasebusika.
Ityebile kwaye inobugocigoci njengoko igama libonisa, eli laphu linobunewunewu linesiphelo esimenyezelayo kunye nengaphakathi le-matte.Ihlala yenziwe ngesilika (nangona ezinye iindlela zokwenziwa zikho), i-drape yayo ethambileyo iyenza idume kwizimbo eziqukuqelayo ezihlala zisikwa kucalucalulo.“Amalaphu athambileyo, agobileyo, alungeleleneyo ahlala enxitywa ngokukhululekileyo, eqinile, okanye iilokhwe zomzimba,” utshilo u-Ingram.Lo mathiriyeli wokukhanya kakhulu ufanelekile ukunxiba unyaka wonke, kodwa ngokuqhelekileyo kufuneka ube ne-flirty entwasahlobo nasehlotyeni.
I-Chiffon lelinye lamalaphu alula kakhulu kwaye lihlala lisetyenziswa njengokwalekayo, ukwaleka okanye njengeqhekeza le-accent ngenxa yesitayile sayo.Yenziwe ngesilika okanye i-viscose, i-flowy kunye ne-flowy, le nto ye-matte ifanelekile kumtshakazi wesitayela se-boho.Ulwakhiwo lwayo olulula kunye nolunomoya lukwenza ukuba lube lukhetho olukhulu kwimitshato yasentwasahlobo kunye nehlobo, kwaye inkangeleko yayo entsha ifanelana ne-silhouettes kunye nezitayile zikathixokazi.Nangona kunjalo, kubalulekile ukuqaphela ukuba amalaphu athambileyo anokuba buthathaka kakhulu kwaye atyhutyhe ngokulula, atsale, okanye aqhekeke.
Yenziwe ngesilika ethambileyo okanye i-viscose ekhaphukhaphu, i-crepe lilaphu elikhanyayo nelishwabeneyo elisebenza kakuhle ngeesilhouette ezithambileyo.Esi sixhobo sibhityileyo sifanelekile ekugxininiseni iigophe, kodwa sikwadityaniswa kakuhle nococeko, uyilo oluncinci kunye neesuti zokutsiba zomtshakazi.Iilokhwe ezilula ezifana neelokhwe ze-mermaid okanye iilokhwe ze-A-line zezona zikhethwayo zakudala kweli laphu, kwaye lilaphu elithandekayo elilungele ukusetyenziswa unyaka wonke.
I-Brocade ifana ne-brocade kuba inoyilo lwe-convex kwaye iyinto elula.Ipateni yayo (i-jacquard enqabileyo) idla ngokuba ngumbala ofanayo kunye nokuxhaswa, kunye ne-monolithic textile iyona nto ingcono kwiindlela ezakhiweyo kunye neesilhouettes ezicwangcisiweyo.I-Brocade lukhetho oluhle lonyaka wonke kwiindlela eziphucukileyo zomtshato ezisesikweni.
Ikhaphukhaphu kwaye iyaphefumla, iDotted Swiss yenziwe nge-muslin enamachokoza epolka alinganayo.Esi sixhobo sifanelekile kwimitshato yangaphandle yasentwasahlobo okanye yasehlotyeni, ngakumbi kwimibhiyozo emnandi kunye neyesifazana efana nolwamkelo lwegadi.
I-dupioni irhabaxa kancinane yenziwe yimicu erhabaxa kwaye inobuhle bendalo obunomtsalane.Olunye lwezona ntlobo zityebileyo zesilika, iyayibamba imilo yayo iyenza ibe lolona khetho lungcono kwiisilhouette ezimangalisayo njengeegawuni zebhola.
Eli laphu, elilukiweyo kwi-silika, ikotoni okanye i-viscose, inomgangatho owenziweyo we-ribbed surface kunye nomphumo onqamlekileyo.I-textile iphinda igcine idizayini ecwangcisiweyo (efanelekile kwiingubo zanamhlanje okanye ezincinci), okwenza kube yinto efanelekileyo yokunxiba unyaka wonke.
Yenziwe ngoboya okanye i-silika, i-gazelle ibonakala inqabileyo kwaye inqabileyo, ingafani ne-organza.Ngokukodwa, umsonto wesilika, olona hlobo luqhelekileyo lokunxiba lomtshakazi, luthathe indawo ephambili njengelaphu lelokhwe yomtshato kaKate Middleton.Esi sixhobo sinzima kodwa siguquguqukayo sibambe imilo yayo kakuhle kwaye ifaneleke kakhulu kwisakhiwo, uyilo lothando kunye nezitayile zesiketi esigcweleyo njengeengubo zebhola, ezilungele ukunxiba unyaka wonke.
I-georgette ecacileyo kunye ne-transparent ilukwe kwi-polyester okanye isilika kunye ne-crepe surface.Ngelixa i-silhouette yayo ethambileyo iyenza ibe ngumaleko ogqibeleleyo welokhwe yomtshato, ilaphu eliqukuqelayo lilungele iisilhouette zabasetyhini ezihamba nomzimba.Njengomthetho, le mpahla kufuneka igqitywe ngexesha elifudumeleyo.
“Elona laphu lidumileyo kwiilokhwe zomtshato lileyisi,” utsho uIngram.“Njengodidi lwelaphu, liguquguquka kakhulu ngokweepateni, ukuthungwa, iintsimbi kunye nokugqiba.Ilayisi ithandwa kakhulu kwiinkcubeko ezininzi.Ithambile, yobufazi, yothando kwaye ithambe ngokwaneleyo ukuba ilingane naliphi na inani.
Esi sixhobo esihle, esilukiweyo kwisilika okanye kwikotoni, siza kwiindlela ezahlukeneyo, kubandakanywa intambo yesiFrentshi, njengeChantilly (incinci kakhulu kwaye ivulekile), i-Alencon (esikwe ngentambo kwiipateni eziqaqambileyo), kunye neViennese (inzima kwaye ibhalwe ngaphezulu).Ukuguquguquka kwayo okukhethekileyo kuyenza ilungele ukusetyenziswa unyaka wonke, nangona amalaphu athile anzima (afana neVenezia yaseItali) angcono kwiinyanga ezibandayo.
“Ilayisi ifuna ukuxhaswa nge-tulle, i-organza, okanye i-lining ukuze igcine imilo yayo, njengoko ileyisi isoloko ithambe kakhulu,” ucebisa njalo u-Ingram.
I-Mikado, i-silika e-denser kunye nokugqiba okukhazimulayo, ithandwa kakhulu kwaye ubukhulu bayo bubonelela ngesakhiwo esinokutshintshwa kwi-architecture kunye noyilo oluntsonkothileyo.U-Ingram uphawula ukuba ii-mikados zinokubunjwa kwaye zithungwe ngemithungo embalwa, ngoko ke “iilokhwe ezinomtsalane, ezixineneyo ze-mermaid kunye neegawuni zebhola ezingenamitya” zigqibelele.Esi sixhobo sinokunxitywa unyaka wonke, kodwa ubunzima bunokulufanela ngcono ubushushu obupholileyo.
Ngokuqhelekileyo yenziwe ngepolyester okanye i-silk taffeta eshinyeneyo, iipateni zamafu zivela ekukhanyeni ukunika inkohliso yamanzi abengezelayo.(Linepateni ejikelezayo kancinane.) Ilaphu linokubanzima, ngoko lingcono ukunxitywa ebusika.
Ngelixa i-organza iqaqambile kwaye inomoya njenge-chiffon, i-silhouette yayo yakhiwe ngakumbi, iyenza ilungele imitshato yemozulu eshushu.Ngokwesithethe elukwe ngesilika, inomphetho okhazimlayo kunye neraphu ecocekileyo.Ukongeza, esi sixhobo sihlala sisetyenziselwa ukubukeka okucwangcisiweyo ukongeza umthamo kwiingubo zebhola, izitimela kunye nezigqubuthelo.Ifanelekile kwiilokhwe ze-whimsical foam kunye namaxesha enkosazana, eli laphu licwecwe lingumzekelo wamaqela othando kunye negadi eqaqambileyo.Nangona kunjalo, lumka njengoko amalaphu aethe-ethe enokubanjwa lula kwaye atsalwe.
Le jezi ine-waffle weave ngaphandle.Nangona isisitayile esinzima, inkangeleko yayo ye-preppy ithande ukusebenza ngcono entwasahlobo nasehlotyeni.Izinto eziphathekayo nazo azikho ngokusesikweni, zivumela izitayela ezicacileyo kunye neesilhouettes ezicwangcisiweyo.
Umnatha wePolyester, le mathiriyeli idityaniswe kunye ukwenza ipateni yedayimane.Nangona eli laphu lisetyenziswa ngokuqhelekileyo ukwenza izigqubuthelo, linokusetyenziselwa ukwenza iilokhwe.Ngaphezu koko, ukuthungwa kwayo okukhanyayo lukhetho oluhle kakhulu entwasahlobo, ehlotyeni, okanye kwiiholide zasekwindla.Uyilo oluntsonkothileyo kunye nezothando zakudala zezona zinto zibalaseleyo zale textile.
I-polyester yinto engabizi kakhulu yokwenziwa enokuthi ilukwe phantse kuyo nayiphi na ilaphu.I-polyester satin, ngakumbi iilokhwe zomtshato, yeyona ndlela ixhaphakileyo kwisilika njengoko ixhathisa imibimbi kwaye ibuthathaka.Lo mathiriyeli unokunxitywa unyaka wonke kodwa unokungakhululeki kancinci ehlotyeni njengoko ungaphefumli kakhulu.
Nangona amalaphu e-fiber yendalo ethanda ukuphefumla ngakumbi, ahlala ebiza kakhulu kwaye afuna ukulungiswa ngakumbi njengoko ethanda ukushwabana.Kungenxa yoko le nto ezinye iindlela zokwenziwa zisiya zithandwa, nangona u-Ingram ekhankanya ukuba “zihlala zinzima kakhulu, ziqine kakhulu, okanye zishushu kakhulu kumntu ozinxibileyo.”
I-Viscose lilaphu eligudileyo, elifana nesilika elinwebekayo nelifikelelekayo.Ilaphu le-semi-synthetic elikhaphukhaphu kwaye eliphefumlayo lilungele imitshato yasehlotyeni, kodwa inokunxitywa unyaka wonke.Nangona inexabiso eliphantsi, iyashwabana ngokulula.Ilaphu elihlala ixesha elide lolona khetho lubalaseleyo kwizitayela ezityhidiweyo okanye uyilo olucwangcisiweyo.
U-Ingram uthi: “Kangangamashumi eminyaka, abatshakazi abaninzi bebekhetha isatin ecwebezelayo."Ubuhle be-satin bulele kwi-sheen, imvakalelo kunye ne-drape."Ityebile kwaye igudileyo, i-satin yenziwe ngesilika kunye nemicu yenayiloni kwaye inomsonto ophezulu wokubala.I-silika ye-satin yenye yeempahla zomtshato eziqhelekileyo, kodwa ngenxa yokuba i-satin inokugqiba okukhethekileyo, inokwenziwa kwi-polyester okanye i-blends.Ubuninzi beli laphu elihlala ixesha elide lilungile kulo naliphi na ixesha lonyaka, kodwa ilaphu elijiyileyo elifana neDuchess lilungele iinyanga ezipholileyo.I-Luxury kunye ne-sexy, le nto ibamba imilo yayo kakuhle kwaye ifanelekile kuyilo olucwangcisiweyo olufana ne-ruffles okanye iingubo zebhola.U-Ingram wongezelela ngelithi: “Into abangayithandiyo abatshakazi abaninzi bale mihla kukushwabana nokuphaphatheka, ngelishwa ezingenako ukuphetshwa ngesatin yesilika.
Isilika ye-Shantung ilukwe ngesilika okanye i-cotton kwi-weave ecacileyo kunye ne-weave ecikizekileyo eyenza ukuba igugile kunye nenkangeleko ekrwada, yendalo.Ubunzima bayo obuphakathi bukhulu kuwo onke amaxesha onyaka kwaye igcina umthamo okhangeleka kwaye uziva ucebile.Ilaphu lihonjiswe kakuhle kwaye lilingana nazo zonke iimilo kunye nobukhulu.
Enye yeempahla zemveli kunye nexabiso eliphezulu, i-silk ayipheleli nje kuphela, kodwa inezinto ezininzi.Ihlala ixesha elide, iza ngeendlela ezahlukeneyo zokuthungwa kunye nezimbo, kwaye ifanelekile kulo naliphi na ixesha lonyaka, kodwa inokuba brittle ngexesha leenyanga ezifudumeleyo.Isilika iphothwa ibe yimisonto ize ilukwe ibe ilaphu yaye yaziwa ngokukhazimla kwayo okuthambileyo.Iindidi ziquka isilika gazar, isilika mikado, fay, shantung, kunye nedupioni.
I-Taffeta ifumaneka ngeendlela ezahlukeneyo kwaye yenziwe ngesilika okanye iintsinga ezenziweyo.Ubunzima ebusika kwaye bulula ehlotyeni, eli laphu lidlamkileyo, liguquguqukayo linokwenziwa phantse kuwo nawuphi na umbala, maxa wambi libengezela ngenkqubo yokuluka.Ilaphu elithambileyo likwanayo neempawu zesakhiwo ezifanelekileyo kwiilokhwe ze-A-line kunye neengubo ezigcweleyo zebhola.
I-tulle ye-sheer mesh evulekileyo ye-weave ine-vibe yokukhanya kodwa inokusongwa phantsi ukwenzela ulwakhiwo olongezelelweyo.I-ethe-ethe kakhulu kwaye ihlala isetyenziswa njengelinen kwiilokhwe kwaye, ngokuqinisekileyo, njengekhuselo.Iza ngobunzima obahlukeneyo kunye nokuqina.Amalaphu omtshato aqhelekileyo afumana ukuthandwa kwizitayile ezikhohlisayo ezinemikhono embalwa, ukusika okanye ukusika.Eli laphu likhaphukhaphu kwaye lihlala lingabizi kakhulu linokusetyenziswa kwiipateni zeleyisi kwaye linokunxitywa unyaka wonke.Khumbula ukuba ilaphu liqhelekile kwi-snags.
I-velvet ithambile, inzima kwaye ivakalelwa ngokubunjwa obunzima, ilungele umtshato wasekwindla okanye ebusika.Eli laphu linobunewunewu lihlala lilungele inkangeleko yasebukhosini kunye nokuphefumlelwa kwangaphambili.
Ukukhanya kunye ne-airy, isigqubuthelo senziwe ngekotoni okanye uboya kwaye sinokubonakala okuguquguqukayo.Umzobo wendalo welaphu ufanelekile kwiisilhouettes eziqukuqelayo ngaphandle kokwakhiwa ngokugqithisileyo, kwaye ubuhle balo obubekelweyo buyenza ilungele imitshato engekho sikweni.
I-Zibeline ine-unidirectional, i-fiber weave ethe tye kunye nesiphelo esimenyezelayo.Xa kuziwa kwiilokhwe zomtshato, i-siebelin yesilika yeyona ndlela ixhaphakileyo efumaneka kuyilo oluninzi.Eli laphu licwangcisiweyo likwalungile kwiisilhouettes ezicwangcisiweyo ezifana neeflare ezifakiweyo okanye i-A-line silhouettes.
Ixesha lokuposa: Jun-30-2023
